Cheesemaking
In The Beginning... There Is Milk
The high quality and efficient production of Australian milk makes it ideal for making cheese.
Made predominantly from cow's milk (with some from goats, sheep and even buffaloes), whole, and partly or fully skimmed milk is used depending on the style of cheese being produced.
Holsteins (also known as Friesians), Jerseys and crosses between the two are the most common breeds of Australian dairy cows. Holsteins give greater volumes of milk while Jerseys, with smaller volumes, have a higher milk fat content in their milk.
Modern farming methods enable farmers to better plan the lactation cycle of their cow herd. This ensures milk is available all year round with few variations in composition. It also avoids seasonal fluctuations.
The best milk for cheesemaking
Cheesemaking relies on good quality milk with a minimum seasonal variation. The composition and quality of the milk is influenced by such factors as:
- Stage of the cow's lactation - cows give milk for approximately 46 weeks per year and the composition changes throughout this period, more so during the last 12 weeks.
- The breed of cow - for example Jerseys produce richer, creamier milk than Holsteins.
- Feed - lush green pastures provide richer milk than pastures experiencing dry conditions. Feed quality affects the fat to protein ratio in the milk that, in turn, influences the yield.
- The individuality of each cow - consider its general health and hereditary conditions.
- Interval between milking - whether it is morning or evening milk. The night milk usually yields higher milk fat.
- Weather conditions - the change of seasons or unseasonal weather patterns affect the grass quality and, in turn, quality of the cows' milk.
The Making of Cheese
To produce cheese there are several distinct stages in the process. Here are the steps involved in the art of cheesemaking:
Standardisation
Standardisation is a process that gives a more consistent or ‘standard’ composition to milk. Most cheese made in Australia is made from standardised milk. During standardisation the ratio of proteins and fats in the milk are adjusted to a preset value to ensure the cheese composition is uniform. This value depends on the style of cheese being made. Some small cheesemakers may not standardise their milk as they milk their own animals and do not buy milk from other farms.
Standardised milk gives a more consistent quality product with less wastage.
Back to Top ^
Pasteurisation
Before being used in cheesemaking, milk is pasteurised by being quickly heated to 72°C for 15 seconds and then rapidly cooled.
This process destroys pathogenic (disease producing) micro-organisms, provides a more consistently safe cheese product and improves the keeping quality of the cheese.
Hard cheeses which are matured for more than three months may be made from unpasteurised milk providing strict rules are followed.
Back to Top ^
Cheese starter cultures
The type and quantity of starter culture varies for each style of cheese. Almost all cheeses have acidifying starters which produce lactic acid from the milk sugar (lactose). Some cheeses have additional cultures to assist during maturing.
The cheese starter cultures are specially selected bacteria which assist in developing the cheese's texture and flavour. Each type of starter gives the cheese its unique characteristics. Mould spores are sometimes used in cheesemaking, depending on the type of cheese being made.
For example:
- Penicillium candidum grows as a white mould on Brie and Camembert.
- Penicillium roqueforti are the Blue mould spores which promote blue mould growth in blue vein cheese.
- Gas producing starter or Propionibacterium shermanii known as 'Props' bacteria are a gas producing bacteria that create the eye formation in Swiss cheese types.
- Aroma cultures or Brevibacterium linens are used for rubbing the surface of washed rind cheeses to produce colour and flavour effects.
- Geotrichum candidum is used on several surface ripened cheese to modify the flavour, aroma and colour of the cheese.
Back to Top ^
Coagulation of the milk
Coagulation of the milk is the first step in converting the liquid milk to a solid cheese. Milk for fresh cheese is coagulated by the lactic acid from the starter cultures. For matured cheese an enzyme, known as chymosin found in rennet, is added to the milk used to form the curd. More recent technology has enabled cheesemakers to use rennet from non-animal sources such as yeasts and fungi.
(Neither the starters, rennet nor milk used in cheesemaking contain any genetically modified ingredients. Is this still 100% true?)
When the milk is set, the curd releases whey thereby concentrating the curd.
Back to Top ^
Cutting the curd
Syneresis, the release of moisture from the curd, occurs after the curd has been cut. A finely cut curd has a large surface area and thus releases more whey to produce a drier cheese. For example, the curd for Parmesan (low moisture) is cut the size of rice grains while the curd for a Brie or Camembert (high moisture cheeses) is usually cut to about 2cm cubes.
Back to Top ^
Stirring the curd
Stirring keeps the cut curds apart and helps to release more whey. The type of cheese being made will influence the length of stirring required. Generally soft cheeses require less stirring than harder cheeses.
Back to Top ^
Heating Cheese
Cooking the curds is a gentle heating process which helps remove more whey. Most fresh cheeses are not cooked whereas drier matured cheeses are. Cheddar is heated to 38°C Romano to 46°C and Parmesan and Gruyere to 54°C.
Back to Top ^
Salting Cheese
Salt enhances the flavour and preserves the cheese. It also helps reduce the moisture level and can restrict the growth of undesirable bacteria. Except for Cheddar types, which are dry salted by adding salt to curd chips prior to hooping, most other cheeses are brine salted.
The cheese is placed into a brine solution of 20–26% salt for a fixed time. The time in the brine depends on the cheese size and desired salt level.
Some cheeses also have their surface (rind) washed with a brine solution during maturation. This helps restrict mould growth and aids the development of the rind.
Back to Top ^
Hooping Cheese
Once the curds have achieved the correct firmness and acidity, they are placed into hoops or moulds to form the shape of the cheese. The cheese stays in the hoops for up to 16 hours.
Back to Top ^
Pressing Cheese
Most semi-hard to hard cheeses are pressed in mechanical presses whilst most soft cheeses are not pressed. Pressing assists curd fusion, closes the texture and helps remove more whey.
Back to Top ^ 
Maturing Cheese
Maturation of rindless cheeses usually takes place in temperature controlled cool rooms. For example, Cheddar requires 8–10°C for 3–24 months. Rinded cheeses require humidity as well as temperature control. For example, white mould cheeses require 95% humidity and 11–14°C.
During maturation the enzymes in the cheese break down the fats and proteins allowing textural and flavour characteristics of the cheese to develop. The main enzyme sources are the milk, starter and rennet, whilst hard Italian-style cheeses may also have lipase added to accelerate fat breakdown and contribute to their unique flavour.
Back to Top ^
Wrapping Cheese
The style of cheese dictates how and when the cheese is wrapped. Fresh cheese is packaged soon after it is made. As it is generally soft, it is often placed in a sturdy outer box to prevent damage during transportation. White mould cheese must be able to breathe through its wrapping as it continues to ripen. The wrapping therefore plays a big part in the successful maturation process.
Blue cheese is generally wrapped in laminated foil to prevent the rind from drying out. Cheddar is most commonly wrapped in a vacuum packed bag. More traditional methods such as waxing and wrapping in cloth are used for specialty cheddars.
Prior to cutting the curd, the cheesemaker checks to ensure the consistency is correct. This task demands an understanding and feel for the cheese that only years of experience can provide.
Curd being placed in hoops. The holes in the side of the hoops allows the moisture to be released.
Back to Top ^
Cheese - appealing to the senses
Caring for cheese and serving it in peak condition requires some understanding of its characteristics. Each cheese category has different watch-points that help indicate if the cheese is ready to eat.
Cheese can be evaluated according to:
Sight
Colour description is usually made by examining the cheese. It is useful to have some understanding of how the cheese should look prior to making a judgement.
In appearance, consider:
- the age of the product
- the appearance of the rind
For example, Brie is often misjudged by its appearance. A slight discolouration of the rind does not necessarily mean the cheese is off.
Smell
Together with appearance, aroma is an overall indicator of the product and its condition. Cheese can be earthy, pungent, mushroomy, ammoniated, milky or fruity.
For a fair assessment of a cheese, a basic knowledge of product expectation is required. For example, Washed Rind Cheese has an earthy, meaty aroma that, to the uninitiated, can be quite daunting. Yet the smell does not reflect the cheese's flavour. Similarly, the strong taste of Blue Cheese may also be an acquired taste.
A Brie may have undertones of ammonia that indicates the cheese is in its final stage of fermentation. The strength of the aroma will indicate its age.
Taste
Sensitivity to taste varies greatly from person to person. There are four fundamental tastes:
The flavours you identify may be different to others and there is no right or wrong. Everyone's palate is unique. What counts is the pleasure you derive from tasting cheese.
Cheese has a number of flavour variations. Whether a cheese is mild or strong, its flavour should linger before disappearing from the palate.
Cheese can be described as acidic, nutty, milky, salty, mouldy, fruity, sweet, yeasty, earthy, bitter, sour, ammoniated or fatty. Consider these flavour descriptions when commenting about the cheese you are tasting.
Texture is also a part of taste. You might wish to consider describing a particular cheese as firm, coarse, gritty, soft, springy or elastic. Above all, the tasting of cheese should be a most enjoyable experience.