White Mould Cheese

A variety of white mould cheeses - key diagram

  1. Ashed White Mould Log
  2. Ashed White Mould Pyramid
  3. Camembert
  4. Triple Cream Cheese
  5. Brie

 

 

 

 

 

Origin

France

Milk Type

Cow, though can be made with goat, or sheep milk.

Description

As the name suggests, surface ripened cheeses age from the exterior to the interior of the cheese; a process that contributes to the maturation and character of the cheese. When cut, a fully matured cheese is creamy in texture (in comparison with the slightly chalky texture of an immature cheese) and develops wonderful flavours.

Covering the exterior is a velvety white rind, grown from a mould such as Penicillium candidum. It takes about a week for the mould to grow on the surface of the cheese after which it is wrapped and left in controlled conditions to further mature. Recipes using White Mould Cheese can be found in the Recipe section of this website.  For example:

  • Smoked Salmon and Brie Galettes

Making White Mould Cheese

  • Rennet, starter culture and white mould spores are added to the milk.
  • The jelly-like curd is cut into cubes of around 2cms to release some whey.
  • The curds and whey are gently stirred to release more whey.
  • When the curds are of the correct consistency, they are placed in hoops to form their shape. More whey drains off and the curds settle and knit together.
  • The hoops are transferred to a high humidity room and turned 2-4 times in 8 hours.
  • The cheese is salted and placed in temperature and humidity controlled rooms where Penicillium candidum develops as a fluffy white mould.

Surface Mould Growth

As the cheese ages, the white mould begins to breakdown showing tinges of brown reddish streaks through the once fluffy white mould. This is a natural occurrence in the development of the cheese.

Mould development takes between 6-10 days depending on the season. It forms the rind and gives the cheese its wonderful, mushroomy flavours.

The cheese is then wrapped. If the mould is too thick, it will draw moisture out of the cheese and leave the body dry and the rind chewy. If there is too little mould development, the mould will not be strong enough to assist in the maturation of the cheese.

Wrapping the Cheese

Once the mould has fully grown, wrapping is a crucial part of the ripening of the cheese. The wrapping stops the mould from further outward growth. The mould consumes the acid inside the cheese and this causes the PH level to rise. As the pH level rises and the protein is broken down, the cheese becomes soft.

Ripening the Cheese

While some Brie and Camembert may ripen in their wrappers earlier than the general rule of 60 days, maturation will be influenced by the season, the milk quality and how the cheese has been cared for once it is made.

As the rind ages, it begins to brown and becomes less robust, a good indication that the cheese is ripe and ready to eat! The centre of the cheese should be shiny and soft but not run too freely once cut.

An undertone of ammonia is a sign the cheese is probably very good to eat, but this depends on personal preference. A strong ammoniated smell, however, may indicate the cheese is past its best. While some enjoy these flavours, others find them overpowering.

Choosing a Starter Culture

White mould cheeses are made in one of two ways:

  • A mesophilic starter makes a white mould cheese with a distinctive chalky curd that takes between 30-45 days to break down and ripen. The chalky curd is visible during the ripening process. These cheeses have a relatively high acid and moisture content with a distinctive flavour and aroma. The texture of the cheese changes on a daily basis as it matures.
  • A special type of thermophilic starter which produces less acid than mesophilic starters creates a smoother less chalky paste (texture). The cheese does not take as long to ripen.

As there is less acid development, the cheese is creamier on the palate and milder in flavour than a cheese made using a mesophilic starter.

The curd is more elastic in the body rather than runny. With a shelf life of up to 70 days, these cheeses require less sensitive handling.

Stage 1

Chalky curd throughout cheese.

Stage 2

3 weeks. The curd under the rind has softened, still with a chalky centre.

Stage 3

Minimum 6 weeks. Chalk line disappearing - cheese soft throughout.


Different Types of White Mould Cheese

Click on the links below to read more about each type of White Mould Cheese.

Brie

Origin

France

Milk Type

Cow, goat, sheep

History

Brie was first made in Briard, situated between Paris and Reims in Champagne. The cheese owes its popularity to its closeness to Paris where it was embraced as the local cheese.

Brie was first made in Australia in the 1890s by Julius Brancourt for the local Sydney market. However it was not until the 1960s that Brie became more readily available and today it is one of Australia's most enjoyed styles of cheese.

Characteristics

Traditionally, Brie was made in 3kg wheels. Today, however, it is available in a variety of sizes. When fully mature, the rind of the cheese will show slight pigmentation and the interior will be soft and creamy.

Flavour

The flavour of Brie will vary depending on the age of the cheese. At its peak of maturity, Brie has a deliciously creamy flavour with rich mushroomy characteristics.

Image - Brie wrapped in prosciutto, Smoked Salmon and Brie Galette (see Recipe section).




Camembert

Origin

France

Milk Type

Cow, goat, sheep

History

The French Revolution in 1789 gave birth to this famous cheese. Legend has it that a priest, escaping persecution, sought refuge with his cousin, Marie Harel, in the region of Camembert.

He requested she make a cheese similar to that made in Briard (the area where Brie originated). The development of a railway system enabled Camembert to travel easily outside its local region. Its popularity also encouraged other cheesemakers to emulate its style. Camembert was first made in Australia in the 1890s though its popularity grew in the 1960s and 1970s when it began being made by a number of factories.

Characteristics

Traditionally smaller than Brie, a Camembert varies from 200g to 250g wheels in Australia. However, today Camembert is available in various sizes. In Australia, there is usually less butterfat in Camembert than Brie. Camembert also doesn't develop quite as fully as Brie.

As Camembert matures, the rind shows signs of pigmentation. When cut a ripened cheese will ooze and the interior cheese will be soft, creamy and shiny.

Flavour

A fully ripened cheese will develop mushroomy flavours that are not quite as pronounced as in Brie.

Image - Camembert cheese platter.




Triple Cream Cheese

Origin

France

Milk Type

Cow

History

The first Triple Cream cheese was made in Normandy at the end of the 19th Century. But it wasn't until after World War One, as a post war luxury, that the popularity of this decadently creamy cheese grew.

Characteristics

Produced similarly to Brie and Camembert, this cheese is enriched by adding cream to the milk.

In Australia, Triple Cream cheese has a milk fat that varies from 30% to 37%. Triple Cream has a soft and smooth interior and a velvety white rind that shows mould breakdown with age. The shape of triple cream cheeses vary from a round wheel to a log or loaf. Flavour
This cheese has a wonderfully rich, buttery flavour that is slightly sweet.

Selection and Storage of White Mould Cheese

  • Store refrigerated wrapped in the original wrapper, a damp cloth or greaseproof paper.
  • Remove from refrigerator at least one hour before service to serve at room temperature.
  • Refer to the use-by date as a guide. While the rind is a good guide to the age of the cheese, taste the cheese prior to service if possible. Appearance alone is sometimes not a true indication of flavour.
  • Under-ripe cheese will have a chalky white thick centre and taste acidic.
  • Over-ripe cheese will usually have a strong smell of ammonia.
  • A ripe cheese when gently squeezed will be soft from the edge of the cheese into the middle.
  • Freezing is not recommended.
Image - Triple cream brie and dukkah.



The Quick Pick When Selecting Ripe Cheese

1. Sight it

If the rind shows signs of breaking down it is ready.

2. Smell it

Mushroomy earthy aromas are typical of ripened cheese. A hint of ammonia is acceptable, though if over-powering the cheese is past its best. Allow to reach room temperature and to breathe before making a final assessment.

3. Touch it

If soft from the edges to the centre, the cheese is ready to serve.

4. Taste it

Full creamy mushroomy flavours that linger on the palate with just a hint of ammonia indicate the cheese is ripened to perfection. The strongest flavour closest to the rind.

Serving White Mould Cheese

  • Serve at room temperature
  • Serve only when it is ripe.
  • Accompany with quince paste, figs, guava, muscatels, fruit or almond bread.
  • Drizzle with toffee and walnuts for a stunning dessert.
  • Add to gourmet sandwiches with smoked ham and vine-ripened tomatoes - delicious in a baguette.
  • Top warm roasted vegetable tartlets with a small wedge of Camembert.

White mould cheese is not often cooked